Monday, September 12, 2011

Gifts of Grandeur: The August Hollming Brooch, 1895-1899

Brooch
August Hollming, 1895-1899
The VIctoria & Albert Museum
This attractive circular brooch consists of a sinuous gold stem which twines around a central cluster of three cabochon sapphire and diamond buds. Indicative of the Naturalistic tendencies of Art Nouveau jewelry, the brooch dates to 1895-1899.


The exceptionally clean cabochon sapphires, exquisitely-set diamonds and flawless gold-work are, at first, mistaken for the work of a French jeweler, however, we can tell by the mark that this is from the hand of August Hollming, one of the many Finnish craftsmen working in pre-revolutionary Russia. Hollming is best known as one of Fabergé's most celebrated work-masters. The gold is also stamped 56 [zolotniki], the equivalent standard of 14 carat gold. Russian jewelers, especially those who worked with Fabergé were applauded for their outstanding work and produced some of the most gorgeous jewels of the period. Their work, in fact, proved influential throughout Europe and the U.S.

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